Trailer Mover - 11/30/2017
This is the first of what I hope will become a series of projects that produced a tool or process that has
worked for us. For some time I had wanted an easier way to move our two trailers around without endangering
my back or having to hook them up to one vehicle or another.
I had seen a couple of possibilities on the Internet and got some ideas then headed out to the shop.
Using an old, 1-7/8” hitch ball, some scrap steel (a piece of an old, large saw blade and a short
piece of ¾” ID steel tube), our 40-year old hand truck and here’s what I came up with.
The whole rig is based upon using that old hand truck without making any alterations to it.
The unit’s backing plate (the saw blade part) slides down over the bottom of the hand truck’s
base plate with the tube running on the top side. There is a large fender washer on a ¼” bolt that
secures the bottom of the tube with a wing nut.
Building sequence:
1) I brazed the shaft of the ball into the end of the steel tube.
2) The backing plate was brazed onto the bottom flange of the ball, spaced out a bit more than
the thickness of the hand trucks base plate.
3) Two triangular gussets were brazed between the ball flange and backing plate to strengthen
the unit.
4) I drilled a ¼” hole through the lower end of the tube, just below the lower edge of the
hand truck’s base plate.
5) The fender washer was bent and shaped to fit the side of the tube.
Here is a drawing of the unit. Hopefully it will make some sense of the above.
In use I slip the ball under and into the trailer coupler and lowering the handle of the hand truck to
raise the tongue.
I can then wheel the trailer around easily, parking it in a back corner of the garage or whatever.
I have not tried to move any really heavy loads but this unit easily handles our 150 lb. boat on its trailer.
This tool is especially handy when parking the trailers inside for the winter, stuffing one in a corner of the
storage building and kind of nesting the other tightly beside it.
Homestead Electronics:
Greenhouse Fan Controller - Arduino #1 - 12-5-2016
And you thought that I hibernated all winter! I have been amusing myself this fall/winter by
designing and building small electronic gizmos based upon Arduino
microcontrollers. This all started, as many homestead projects do, with
being frustrated by the fact that neither our solar charge controller nor
inverter can handle diversion loads.
There are many times, in all seasons, when the sun is out bright and the
batteries are fully charged. Sometime this happens early in the day and
the potential energy from the solar panels for the rest of the day is
just wasted. The charge controller sees that the batteries are full and
says, "I'll do my job of protecting the batteries from overcharge by
reducing the power I'm sending to them".
If we are around and
notice that the controller has been in float mode a while, we can
manually turn on a one or two circuits that power electric heating
panels. This has the potential to reduce the amount of firewood we burn
- a good thing.
So, back to the electronic things. I am
designing a pair of circuits that sense battery voltage and charge
current and some software that runs on an Arduino that will turn on/off
relays that control those two heating panel circuits. I think I forgot
to mention that I have not always had a lot of luck with electronic
stuff. I have smoked many a home-made device. I figured that with that
background I’d start with something a little simpler; an Arduino-operated
greenhouse fan controller. This sort of thing is commonly known as a
‘thermostat’. Wheel reinvented!
Here’s what the fan controller
looks like inside…

All kinds of fun components and wires seemingly running everywhere! By
the way, it works just fine. The display shows the current temperature
as well as upper and lower set-points, which are adjustable. The unit
has been working well for a few weeks now. No smoke at all!
.
Homestead Electronics:
Solar Diversion Controller - Arduino #2 - 12-20-2016
Since the greenhouse fan controller worked so well I was encouraged
to continue on with the solar diversion controller. To make a long
story short, I wired up another Arduino microcontroller circuit that
senses the voltage of our main battery bank. When two criteria are
met the unit turns on two remote relays that in turn activate some
smallish radiant heating panels. First, the battery voltage must be
27 volts DC or higher and secondly, the FlexMax 80 charge controller
must be in one of its two float modes.
The resting voltage of our battery bank is (as of
2024) 26.6 volts so in the morning, before the sun hits the panels,
the diversion relay is OFF. The voltage increases as the sun hits
the panels and usually by mid-morning it climbs to or above 27
volts. Some time later, usually 15 minutes to an hour, depending on
how bright the sun is and how much battery power we used the the
previous evening, the controller will go through a short 'Absorb'
mode and then switches to 'Float' mode.
At that point both criteria have been met and the
heaters are turned on. There is enough hysteresis in the
controller's programming to keep the heaters on throughout the day
even though the solar input may vary quite a bit due to clouds. In
the evening the process reverses and when the battery voltage drops
below 27 volts the relay switches OFF. Usually there is a short
period during which with the heaters off the voltage will go back up
to more than 27 volts and the heaters may turn on for a few minutes.
Sometimes we notice this happening but usually, since the relays are
pretty quiet and the heaters are virtually silent, we are unaware of
this little shut-down process.

On a typical partly sunny day the diversion
controller shut-down is early enough that the panels have a chance
to top off the batteries before sundown. It is an understatement to
say that we are very happy with this unit's performance! At this
point (April, 2025) the controller has performed flawlessly for over
eighth years. I changed a couple of settings when we upgraded our
battery bank to lithium ion (LiFePO4) batteries but otherwise it has just worked
without even being touched for all those years. I estimate the cost
for the controller was less than $20, a pretty good return on
investment!
<{ Click for larger image }
.
Temporary Storage using Straw
Bales and some boards and plastic sheet
The articles, discussions, and books on straw bale building have been fun and
intriguing. If we build again, it is a technique we will certainly look into. But it is an
idea that can be used on a less formal scale as well, for temporary storage and shelter.
When we first moved to our current homestead, we discovered, to our surprise and dismay,
that one summer was not long enough to build a complete homestead -- not even a complete
house -- not even close. We also discovered that those unanticipated odds and ends drained
a limited savings even faster than the grasshoppers devoured the new garden, planted on
worn-out soil. Fall arrived with the house built up only as high as the footings. We
looked around and made the responsible decision to move back down to the city to work for
money for a few more years (which lasted two months before instinct overruled supposed
responsible action, and we moved back to the homestead).
But all our worldly goods were residing under a large sheet of heavy black plastic, where
we had unloaded them from the U-Haul that spring, and had laid them out in more or
less organized rows for their temporary stay until we got the house done that summer. So
we thought. But now, it didn't seem the best storage facility for a longer duration. And
besides, the thrill of crawling under that black plastic to find the particular box that
had that one item in it that we wanted had long faded away. A neighbor down the road was
baling straw about then. Ah hah!
We bought enough bales of straw to stack, one over two, into a building eight feet wide on
center by about twice that long, with an opening in one wall for a door. For the roof we
had the eight foot rough wood forms we had made for the footings and walls of our planned
house (ala Nearing slip-form type stone and cement wall, which later turned into an Oehler
PSP wood type). We set the heavy forms, made of rough pine 2-by-4s and 1-by-6s, on the
straw bale walls and covered the whole thing with the piece of 10 mil black plastic that
had been covering our belongings. Scrap boards laid on the plastic kept it from blowing
away.
What a great improvement! What luxury! It was something we should have done at the very
first. This hay bale temporary storage building lasted for many years, and the chickens
that came the next year loved to scratch around the base of the straw walls. When we built
a more permanent wooden storage building, the straw went to good use on the garden, and
the plastic and forms went on to other lives.
As is the way on the homestead, many of those wooden forms were used a few years later as
a roof on a "temporary" lean-to off the wooden storage building -- for
rototiller, corn grinder, tires, and the like. Last year the "temporary" lean-to
(probably twelve years old) was replaced with a "real" addition (2-by-10
rafters, metal roofing, walls made of salvaged used metal garage doors). The best of the
forms became a new porch off the woodshop (former cabin). The rotten ends of the worst
were sawn off, the remaining halves used as scaffolding for building a new hangar. And
life on the homestead goes on -- for people and materials.
* * * * * *
Copyright
© 1999 by Susan Robishaw / Updated 5/2025 by Steve Schmeck